Sunday, January 14, 2007

Brazil Part 1: Dec 17th - Dec 21st

In Brazil, we targeted two relatively important states- Rio de Janeiro on the East coast and Rio Grande do Sul, the southern most state. We spent about 4 days in Rio de Janeiro- a city well known for it's festive Carnivals as well for it's armed crimes. Most big cities in Brazil like Rio and Sao Paulo have a great divide between the rich and the poor after decades of economic hardships that the country has gone through. But it does seem to be turning around. People are realizing that they can progress economically and socially if they value what they have and coordinate with what the world needs. If Bombay is world famous for Dharavi- its largest slum in Asia, Rio has it’s Favelas with its poverty stricken urban sprawl dotting the base of the hills that surround the city.

Rio de Jeneiro
Rio particularly is a beautiful city, blessed with breath-taking natural landscape featuring mountains, oceans, beaches and forests. It is so green that even to this day the concrete landscape has not been able to overpower the natural beauty. Even the citizens seem to value greenery as every house retains its old trees, and plants ample native vegetation. The city is also eternally blessed by the 98 ft tall open-armed statue of Christ standing atop the Corcovado Mountain.

I believe the idea of roller coasters came from the city of Rio! It was proved by the unique bus ride we had on our way back to Copacabana from Santa Teresa late one night. We drove through narrow winding streets going downhill at break neck speed. A baby in the back seat screamed, an old lady squirmed in fear and all other passengers held their breath and wished they had an extra hand to place it tightly over their heart. Earlier that evening the ride in the bonde (pronounced bonzay- it is a streetcar) up to the hilly neighbourhood of Santa Teresa was wonderful as we rode over the historic arches (Arcos da Lapa) and looked down upon the city and past the closely huddled-up houses along the streets. But traveling on the city transport is otherwise both pleasant and a satisfying experience.

The architecture in some parts of the city towards the South (Copacabana and Ipanema) look very organic as you find buildings merged into the sides of the mountains and almost hidden by natural greenery, local streets winding uphill and then ending at the foot of the mountains. Most of the major streets so often disappear into the tunnels dug into the hill providing breath-taking views on both ends of the tunnel.

Coastline
Beaches are the heart and soul of this city. As someone aptly said- The beach is an extension of home, school and the workplace for local residents of Rio. Everyone heads there atleast once a day. For such volume of human traffic, the beaches are kept incredibly clean. Unlike in N America, the local residents hardly take much with them to the beaches so there is not much reason to pollute. Even though Copacabana and Ipanema are the most popular beaches in the world they have still managed to keep it non-commercialized and untainted by screaming advertisements. In fact the only plastering you might find on the walls along the beaches are local street art. While on the beach, Brazilians like to take a few dips, play some futevolei (footvolley) or just lie down for a tan. And there's hardly a way to tell the rich from the poor- because everyone is in a tiny bikini. They even walk back home and do their shopping on the way in the same uniform.
Pictures of the beach: Beaches of Rio

The view of Rio from Sugarloaf (Pao de Acucar) is a treat! It does cost a handful of Reals to take the cable car ride to the top but it is worth the effort. You can see the complete city and neighbouring islands from the top of this hillock, which they describe as a Loaf of Sugar. The best time to go there is in the evening when you can view the landscape both in daylight and night. The lights along the beaches seem to adorn the city like a necklace of pearls in the night.

Niteroi
We hit the city of Niteroi, which is separated from Riol by the Guanabara Bay, late one evening. Niteroi is a city across the Guanabara Bay from Rio and can be accessed either over the 3mile long bridge or by ferry. The identifying landmark of Niteroi is the 'Flying Saucer' by local architect Oscar Niemeyer. It is a giant white disc sitting at the edge of the ocean waters housing the Museum of Contemporary Art. We had dinner consisting of egg sandwiches by the bay. When we were ready to leave, the city seemed to coming alive around 12o'clock on a Tuesday night! People thronged the squares and were seated on the streets outside the restaurants while others danced away to the beat of samba. Street vendors served the ever popular Caipirinha from their wide array of international liquor selections.

Neighbourhoods
The lake in the affluent Southside of Rio city is called Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. It comes alive early in the morning with joggers and cyclists and at night with the restaurants along the water front. Food wasn't all that good although it was expensive. But the snacks sold by the wayside peddlers were yummy! They were exceptionally clean and hygienic besides being reasonably and equally priced both for locals and visitors. :) We loved those churros (fried banana with dulce de leche filling).

On the final evening in Rio we went to the neighbourhood of Gamboa. We arrived at Club Gamboa with a bunch of friends. The place was already coming alive to the beat of some live traditional music and couples dancing. The interiors of the place were very interesting as it was remodeled out an old church. We had a very patient waiter who went out of his way to make us some vegetarian food.

Pictures of Rest of Rio
All in all people in Rio seemed to be happy, alive and enjoying life. Music, dance and the natural wonders around keep them all in good spirits! What made our visit really wonderful was the company we had- Carmen and her brother Miguel and of course the entertaining bunch of friends that Miguel introduced us to out there.

Useful websites
Rio city
Lonely Planet Brazil

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